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“As I watched the seagulls, I thought: That’s the road to take; find the absolute rhythm and follow it with absolute trust.” – Nikos Kazantzakis, Zorba the Greek

On the New South Wales south coast, you can’t sit on sun-drenched whitewashed walls and watch donkeys laden with cargo clop back and forth from the steep port, nor can you climb all over a volcanic island and feel the earth alive underfoot. You certainly can’t chase the ocean sunset on the back of the local bike shop owner’s moped, then egg him on as he performs Zorbas dance for you in the village disco. But you can watch greedy seagulls and imposing pelicans encircle this Batemans Bay tribute motel by the waterfront. This may not be the Greek island of Santorini, but the seabirds are still willing to keep rhythm for you.